About a month ago, I decided to let some of my spring break enthusiasm slip out in the form of "A Swisalian Holiday." What seemed like a premature, slightly unnecessary post talking about the distant future has already come and gone.
We arrived back in London this morning around 11:00 AM. Gaining an hour traveling from Italy still didn't make getting up at 3:00 AM easy to stomach, but because our flight departed at 6:35 AM, it was pretty easy to fall back asleep.
Our trip went a little bit like this: Lausanne, Alps Alps Alps, extreme gas prices, exceedingly expensive toll roads, Genoa, Cinque Terre, Pisa, Florence and Rome.
Before we departed, I was glad to be done with midterm exams and ready to embark our epic European adventure. Armed with only our laptops and credit cards, all of us had researched destinations, booked hostels, trains, airfare and our infamous rental car. After hours of planning, checking, confirming, rescheduling and realizing just how hellish the life of a travel agent must be, we found ourselves flying towards Geneva, Switzerland.
Dave, Rainey, Zach and Bri before we left for the airport
The first part of our adventure would take us to the seaside town of Lausanne, Switzerland. Situated on Lake Geneva overlooking the Alps, Lausanne is arguably one of the most picturesque cities in Switzerland due to its close proximity to the Alps.
Our flight into Geneva was just short enough to prohibit sleep and promote excitement. By the end I was more than ready to get the heck off and find our ticket to Lausanne. Thankfully, the Swiss rail was quick and easy. It didn't even require French! We hopped into a rail car that looked like it was designed by IKEA in the mid-70s. Minimalist and ugly sums it up, but it got the job done and I learned how to do a "bridge" when shuffling cards. Definitely a good life skill haha.
My first hostel experience proved to be a success. Youth Hostel was a definite winner, although it felt a little rough around the edges. Think bank vault doors, concrete walls and lack of anything but a bed and light in the room. Secure, clean, and full of traveling Europeans! What's not to love?
Lausanne:
By the end of the week, we had mastered the art of the self-timer function on our cameras. Clearly this was the first attempt. Nevertheless, the morning of our first day in Lausanne looked glorious.
Swiss Francs
Lausanne has several main attractions, one being the Alps, the other is the lakeside resort of Ouchy. Naturally, we figured it'd be a good idea to head down to the water and see what all the fuss was about. We didn't have much of an itinerary once we were in Lausanne, so every decision we made was pretty spontaneous.
After mulling around and getting pictures of the marina and surrounding Alps, we decided it would be fun to rent a paddle boat and go out into Lake Geneva. Despite the clear blue skies and our close proximity to the Alps, we were unable to snap a clear photo of the snow-capped behemoths. A lime green, VW-inspired paddle boat was clearly the best way to search for a better view of all that snow.
The Group
After paddle boating, we climbed the first of MANY hills up to Le Musée Olympique, saw a photography exhibit at the Musée de I'Elysee, checked out the Cathedral in the old part of the city and had dinner.
After our first day in the city that seemed to be asleep, I was left going to bed a little confused. It wasn't that the city lacked beauty, was dirty or that I didn't have a good time, the whole experience just wasn't what I had originally thought it would be. This is usually a good thing, and you might say it's bad to go into an experience with preconceptions, but the reviews I read of the city and what I saw didn't seem to coincide. It became clear after spending a second day in Lausanne that we just picked a bad time to go.
The biggest missing ingredient was people. I saw cars, scooters and evidence that people actually lived there- tons of stores, restaurants and clubs, but not one was open. We thought initially that it was because we were doing our first day of sightseeing on a Sunday, but then even on Monday there was still a lack of hustle and bustle.
Also, Lausanne is in the French part of Switzerland and we learned that they don't require English to be taught in schools. This is in contrast to the German part of Switzerland which (as Dave found out when he went skiing in the Alps) means the French people don't want to serve you food, and in the German area, they are more than willing to take your order.
This resulted in constant paranoia every time I ordered (attempted to order) at any restaurant, grocery or pharmacy.
Despite the city being pretty quiet for the duration of our stay, we were still able to have an absolute blast and make the most of our time. One of the biggest things I kept stumbling upon when researching the city was the Sauvabelin Tower. Designed by DaVinci, but built recently in 2003, it stands at the top of a big hill overlooking the city.
We grabbed some take-away sandwiches and went trekking towards the big pile of wood. Here is what we found:
I love the Alps
Halfway point
After our adventure to the Sauvabelin, we managed to wander around Lausanne, find a mini zoo with mountain goats, a park trail that looked like it could have been pulled from Wildwood in Toledo, free public transport by bus back down to the water and a hill...Another one, with more views of the Alps.
Our last evening in Lausanne was spent at a little restaurant called Cafe de L'Eveche. Zach and I went for the traditional Swiss fondue and Dave had some pasta. I wouldn't call the "Four Cheese" fondue delicious as it was simply four stinky Swiss cheeses melted into a pot, but it was definitely an experience. We liberally ground some black pepper over the whole pot to detract from the overwhelming smell. It seemed to help.
This sums up the experience haha
The following morning we arrived at Europcar to pickup our Seat Ibiza rental car that would take us from Lausanne to Florence.
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When we began purchasing plane tickets and finalizing our spring break plans many weeks ago, you may recall that we were unable to connect the dots of our trip. Trains from Lausanne to Florence do exist, but are pricey. The solution? Europcar.co.uk.
We left the hostel on 16 March, 2010, with plenty of time to make it to the Lausanne branch of Europcar. The rental allowed us 12 hours and unlimited mileage to complete the journey. It was clear there were so many things that could go wrong, but the allure of driving through the Alps and along the Italian coastline was too great to be ignored. It was going to be quite an adventure.
After going over the contract, adding the comprehensive collision insurance and walking around the car to make sure it wasn't full of any hidden door dings, they gave me the key and said have fun. No orientation, just get in and drive. It couldn't be that different, right? Well at least we were on the
right side of the road.
To chronicle the whole trip would be nuts, so I will list some of the highlights.
Check out the view!
Driving through Genoa was a trip and a half. I will never complain about traffic, noise, distractions or lane discipline again. Thanks to Google Maps, Tom Tom and most importantly, navigator Rainey, we made it through the center of the city to the Italian coastline without a scratch. Here we are along the road in the blazing sunshine attempting a picture.
After filling the gas tank with 68.00 Euro of petrol, we decided to drive through the Cinque Terre. It wasn't exactly on the way, but we made great time on the motorways and could afford to go off the beaten path for an hour or so.
Next stop was Pisa to see the infamous leaning tower. Despite being there for only 15 minutes, I can say that it is indeed leaning. I'm just wondering what will happen when it falls.
Tower of Pisa
After Pisa, the remainder of the drive was on the motorway until we got into Florence.
Summary
1. Navigating our way out of Lausanne was absolute madness. It took us over an hour to get to the motorway.
2. Unexpected toll roads gobble up your Euros at an alarming rate. Thank goodness we were splitting them between four people.
3. Petrol is very expensive. We budgeted correctly for this, but it was still 68.00 Euro (roughly 92.00 USD) to fill up a tiny two door coupe.
4. You will detest anything on two wheels after driving through Genoa, Italy. Scooters, mopeds, bicycles, it doesn't matter. They are all crazy. It is no surprise that several of these lunatics get flattened by four-wheeled vehicles every year.
5. The Swiss/Italian border is an absolute joke. We were not required to answer a single question and only realized we were in Italy when the language suddenly changed.
6. I want a Seat Ibiza...The little two door had more than enough room for our luggage, tons of legroom in the back and every creature comfort one could ask for.
7. Rainey is a human Garmin. She is the sole reason we made it without getting lost.
8. Always print Google Maps directions to supplement the GPS. Our 15 page packet of directions was surprisingly spot-on when Tom Tom decided to sporadically stop working.
9. Good friends = compulsory. We were still talking to each other after 11 hours in a two-door, economy car. That says a lot haha.
10. Driving through Europe was more fun than I could have imagined. Every second was enjoyable and I wouldn't trade it for anything. The twisting mountain roads that afforded priceless views of the Alps, never-ending tunnels, motorway blasts, and city driving that made me appreciate the calm of I475 in Toledo are things I will never forget.
Total distance: 697.9 km = 434 mi
Spotless except for all those bugs...
We made it!
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The final chapter of our spring break adventure was Italy. Safely parked in the Europcar parking lot, I handed the keys to the nice attendant, and we went in search of our hostel in downtown Florence. As I was numb from driving, the crazy antics our cellphone-chatting, weaving, overly-aggressive taxi driver performed didn't phase me during our trip from the Florence airport to the hostel.
Florence by night
Our hostel was in a building constructed 1000 years ago. There are only eight rooms which meant the staff was very willing to help us out. As soon as we walked into the door, they addressed Zach by his name, gave us a tour, let us get settled into our room, gave us a mini tour of Florence via map and recommended a great little restaurant for dinner.
The little restaurant called
Restaurant Angelo served us some great pizzas, good house wine and topped it off with prompt service. A perfect way to end an incredible day of travel.
On the way back to the hostel, I figured it wouldn't hurt to try some gelato.
It was everywhere..
Florence: Day One - St. Patrick's Day!
Breakfast: Croissant and espresso
First impressions: Narrow sidewalks, dirty streets (compared to London) and street vendors.
1. I guess the sidewalks in London are wide enough we don't even think to notice how convenient it is that they can fit 5-6 people. In Florence, it's difficult to walk side-by-side with someone without constantly falling off the edge (which I do anyway, even when the sidewalk isn't narrow haha).
2. In London, it's clear most of the buildings are old, but they don't have the same feel. In Italy, everything has 1000 years worth of dirt caked on to prove it.
3. Street vendors! This is one thing that blew my mind. Not only were the vendors everywhere, they all sold the same merchandise! You'd think one would get sneaky and switch up his product so he could attract some new business. Nope. Every five stalls the same purses, sunglasses and (oddly enough) camera tripods would appear. So strange.
One of the reasons we chose to come to Florence was because Zach and I knew Heaven would be studying there. As a result, we met up with her as soon as we could and she didn't waste anytime giving us what would become an absolutely brilliant tour of the city.
Climbing the Duomo
Otherwise known as the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, this Cathedral was completed in 1436. I thought it was cool that while the exterior is incredibly ornate, the interior is really simple, almost plain.
The main attraction, besides the obvious outward beauty, is the Duomo (dome). If you're willing to climb 463 steps, you can take in the skyline of Florence from an observation deck at the top.
Heaven didn't hesitate to say we had to do it and set a blistering pace up the narrow spiral staircases.
At the top!
After soaking up the views of Florence, we said farewell to Heaven so she could take a midterm exam, and jumped in line for La Galleria Academia. Housing a priceless collection of marble busts, along with the prized statue of David, it enabled us to kill the perfect amount of time before we were to reunite with Heaven after her exam.
Statue of David
As per Heaven's recommendation, we grabbed a quick bite to eat at a restaurant that sat right on the street. It was housed in a building, but it was basically glorified street food. I had a panino with prosciutto, rocket and goat cheese. So simple, but seriously so good. I could have eaten five.
The #1: Prosciutto is so much better in Italy..
Post-lunch, we headed to Galleria Delugi Uffizi, which houses the works of Michelangelo, Botticelli and Lippi. Heaven gave us a quick tour of the major highlights.
Pizzas, panini and gelato were around every corner- my mouth never stopped watering
The remainder of the day was spent walking along the Arno river. We eventually stopped to watch the sunset from atop a hill overlooking the city. Pictures weren't an option.
Another long day of seeing the sights meant we owed Heaven one big thank you. She was a great tour guide and helped us stay busy all day.
The next day: Rome
First impressions: Still dirty, it's a much bigger city than Florence and the Coliseum is breathtaking.
After a three hour train ride, we quickly walked to Hostel Mosaic, had a painless check-in experience, dropped our bags and set off for the Coliseum. Knowing that the Vatican could take all day (due to long lines), we wanted to get an early jump seeing the sites.
Photo Credit: Zach Westhoven
Photo Credit: Zach Westhoven
Shockingly, our hostel offered us "free" pasta for dinner, so after wandering around the Roman ruins for a while, we went back to the hostel to wait for our meal. Verdict: surprisingly delicious! However, one plate was not enough, and despite our best efforts to sneak another, the lady (who I swear didn't take one look at me as she passed me my first plate) recognized me instantly. Oh well..
Still hungry, we ventured out and found a little restaurant that looked both unassuming and inviting. La Mensa di Bacco checked all the boxes. The house wine was cheaper than coke, the pizza was incredible and I left thoroughly stuffed. Time for bed.
How does one do all of Rome in a day? Romarobics, of course! Garmin Rainey mapped out an insane route for us to follow that had us passing every important monument, fountain and building in the city.
Here are some highlights:
Tour of the Coliseum
- It's 50 meters high
- Built in 8 years
- Capacity: 60-70,000 people
The last gladiator game was abolished in 423 and the final animal game in 528.
After the subdued tour of the Coliseum and imperial ruins, Rainey started "trucking it" to make sure we hit every important site. We don't have many pictures documenting the adventure, mainly because we didn't do much stopping. That said, there is one from the end of the day to summarize our thoughts as we encountered the 2402942094 staircase of the day.
Notice Bri:
On the Spanish steps.. Not sure what we're doing.
Photo Credit: Rainey Latislaw
Knowing that the next day would be consumed with the Vatican, we decided tonight was the night to do a traditional four course meal.
On our way back to the hostel, we stumbled upon Restaurant Zeus that advertised a menu of bruschetta (brus'ketta), arrabiata pasta, salad and roast pork loin for 18.00 Euro. A definite bargain in the heart of Rome, so we decided to give it a shot.
I don't have any pictures to document the feast, but it's safe to say it was great. The service was prompt and the courses just kept coming.
Two thumbs up,
Restaurant Zeus.
The Vatican:
Someone was on our side the day we went to the Vatican. We showed up at the "Guided tour" desk and were informed they were sold out. However, there was still a chance if five people didn't claim their tickets within several minutes. It was the only English tour of the day, so it was definitely a make or break moment.
Miraculously, the five people failed to show and we were granted access to the tour group.
It was a bit like getting tickets to the Oscars- it just doesn't happen.
3.5 hours later we had seen St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel and the Vatican Museum, all of which blew my mind. It was time well spent and a great way to finish off our week-long European adventure.
After the Vatican Tour
One week, three countries (counting the Vatican) and lots of good times!!
